Explore Kathmandu Durbar Square

For centuries this was where Kathmandu's kings were crowned and ruled from. Hanuman Dhoka, the old palace, sits beside a crowd of temples and courtyards, many of them badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake and rebuilt by hand since, with new carved wood and old bricks.

Walk slowly and look up. The tiered pagoda roofs, the carved windows and the struts showing gods and animals are the best of the Malla era's craft.

Kumari Ghar is the home of the Kumari, a young girl worshipped as a living goddess. Stand in the courtyard and you may see her at the window. Photographs of her are not allowed.

Basantapur, the open part of the square, has a pigeon-filled platform and a row of stalls. Freak Street, the old hippie trail stop, runs off its south side, and the lanes north lead through Indra Chowk and Asan, the old market streets.

Arrive early and walk the whole square once without stopping, so you know where everything is. Then go back to the parts that caught your eye. The carvings on the struts of the temples reward a close look, and the courtyards inside the palace are calmer than the square outside.

A local guide at the entrance can explain the history, which makes a big difference here. Agree on how long and how much before you start.