Heritage & sights · Gaushala, on the Bagmati
Watch the evening aarati at Pashupatinath
Nepal's holiest Hindu temple. The main shrine is open to Hindus only, but anyone can watch the sunset aarati on the ghats from the river's east bank.
The evening aarati
Every evening as the light fades, priests on the ghats by the Bagmati perform the aarati, a ceremony of fire, bells, chanting and song offered to Shiva. Lamps are swung in slow circles while the crowd on both banks claps and sings along.
The best view is from the stone steps on the east bank, across the river from the main temple. Get there a little early, sit down, and let it unfold. It lasts around an hour.
A place of worship and of cremation
Pashupatinath is Nepal's holiest Hindu temple. The main shrine is open to Hindus only, but the rest of the complex, the riverbanks, the smaller shrines and the terraces on the east bank, are open to all.
The ghats along the river are where families cremate their dead, and you will likely see a cremation taking place. This is a working place of grief, not a show. Keep your voice down, keep your distance, and do not photograph mourners.
You will also meet sadhus, Hindu holy men with painted faces and long matted hair. Some will pose for a photo and expect a small gift in return.
Walking the rest of the complex
Before the aarati, cross the footbridge to the east bank and climb the steps behind the terraces. Rows of small stone shrines to Shiva line the hillside, and the path continues through the forest of Mrigasthali, where deer and monkeys live, towards the Guhyeshwari temple upstream.
It is a quiet walk, and a good way to see how large and old the whole site is before the evening crowd arrives.
Tips
- Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered.
- Leave leather items behind if you can; they are not welcome near the shrines.
- Maha Shivaratri, usually in February or March, brings huge crowds of pilgrims and sadhus from across Nepal and India.
- Combine it with Boudhanath, a short ride away, for a full afternoon.
More things to do
Questions
Can non-Hindus enter Pashupatinath Temple?
Not the main temple. Non-Hindus can walk the rest of the complex and watch from the east bank of the Bagmati, which is also the best place to see the aarati.
What time is the aarati at Pashupatinath?
It starts around dusk every evening, so the time shifts with the season. Arrive before sunset to be safe.
What's on for Watch the evening aarati at Pashupatinath?
Nothing listed right now — new dates appear the day they are announced.
Where in Kathmandu is this?
Gaushala, on the Bagmati.